Checking your dive computer for leaks with a dive computer pressure tester

The biggest question after performing maintenance or changing the battery in your dive computer always remains: "Is it waterproof?"

For this reason, many of our customers purchase the "Pressure Tester for Dive Computers."

With this device, both you, as a service technician, and your customer can be assured that they'll receive a pre-tested, waterproof computer.

In addition to the manual available for download on our website, we'd like to provide some further explanation and tips on using the "Pressure Tester for Dive Computers."

Let's start by explaining what some of the items on the tester and control panel are for and how they function.

1. Adjustable exhaust valve: This valve, located on the lid of the test chamber, features a hexagonal adjustable open and closed option on top and an output on the side, where a silencer is placed.

2. Pressure regulator: This is the black round knob on the left front of the control panel. This knob controls the maximum pressure that can be sent to the Tester. To adjust the pressure, first pull the knob up and, after hearing a click, start increasing (turn to the right) or decreasing (turn to the left) the pressure.

3. Ball valve: The black-and-red ball valve on the control panel regulates the flow of air to the tester. It is located after the pressure regulator and will therefore only supply the pressure indicated on the manometer (not the connected air source).

4. Lift Rod and Plate: These are the movable rod and round plate with holes located on top and inside the tester. You can place the dive computer on this plate and move it up and down during testing.

5. Inflator connector coupler: This is where you connect an external air source to the system. This can be the inflator hose from a scuba regulator, but a standard workshop compressor with a maximum pressure of 10 bar /145 psi is also acceptable.

Setting up your dive computer pressure tester

To facilitate initial use of the pressure tester, we have summarized the steps below.

Place the test setup on a workbench or table.

Connect the supplied blue hose to the top right of the control panel by pushing it into the red opening until it stops (you can remove it by pressing the red ring and simultaneously removing the hose). Connect the other end of the hose to the inlet on the pressure tester.

Now fill the tester halfway with water and place a dive computer on the round, perforated lift plate. Ensure this plate remains above water when replacing the lid.

Screw the lid closed (note: never turn the lid knobs when the device is pressurized).

Check that the manual exhaust valve on the tester lid is fully closed by turning it clockwise by hand (do not use a wrench).

Now connect an external air source (max. 10 bar) with an inflator coupling to the left side of the control panel. Make sure the red valve lever is in the vertical position (this is closed).

The pressure gauge now shows the system pressure. By pulling out the black knob on the pressure regulator, it is positioned to increase or decrease the pressure.

Turn the lever until the pressure reaches 2 bar.

Now open the red valve lever by slowly moving it to the horizontal position (note: it can only be operated in one direction).

You should now hear air flowing into the pressure tester.

After filling the tester, check for leaks. If the lid is leaking, first bleed the tester (close the red valve and open the exhaust valve on the lid), then tighten the knobs slightly and restart the test.

After checking for leakage, the black pressure regulator knob can be turned further (clockwise) to increase the pressure (we recommend a test pressure of 4 bar).

When the test pressure is reached, you can lower the dive computer by slowly pressing down on the lift rod.

Once the dive computer is fully submerged, the red valve on the control panel can be closed, after which the exhaust valve on the lid can be slowly opened.

While opening the dive computer, carefully observe if air bubbles escape; This means it is not properly sealed.

Immediately raise the dive computer, after which the pressure tester can be completely deflated, and the computer can be inspected.

The major advantage of testing this way is that if a leak is detected, only air, not water, will enter the dive computer.

The air bubbles visible during deflation are air escaping from the area where the computer is not waterproof.

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Most dive shops and service centers have a fully equipped workstation for servicing diving equipment. Therefore, we recommend integrating the Pressure Tester into this setup by connecting it to a diving cylinder with a first stage with an inflator hose, which has an average medium pressure of 10 bar, or to a workshop medium-pressure air compressor with an adjustable pressure of 6 to 10 bar.

Diving on Demand / Scuba Service Tools accepts no liability for the information given in this document.

Our documents are to provide a general understanding of SCUBA diving-related topics, and not to provide specific advice.

Most authorized dealers are able to perform warranty, repair, and service work on your equipment. Availability of sub-assemblies and components, repair parts, specialized tools, maintenance guides, and service manuals does not imply qualification to assemble and/or service scuba equipment. Improper service of dive equipment can lead to serious injury or death.